Preventing the Spread of FIV

Feline immunodeficiency virus, or FIV, is much like HIV in that it compromises the immune system and infects many types of cells. The good news is that cats can generally tolerate FIV fairly well with complete immune system debilitation at less than 5%. That's compared to over 50% in humans. However, there are some crucial steps an owner needs to take to prevent the spread of FIV. When reading up on transmission prevention of FIV on Wikipedia, I felt that there were some important information missing. Below is found under the Transmission section of FIV on Wikipedia.

The primary mode of FIV transmission is via deep bite wounds, where the infected cat's saliva enters the other cat's tissues. FIV may also be transmitted from pregnant females to their offspring in utero, however this vertical transmission is considered to be relatively rare based on the small number of FIV-infected kittens and adolescents.^[3][9] This differs from FeLV, which may be spread by more casual, non-aggressive contact such as mutual grooming and sharing of food bowls.Risk factors for infection are being of the male sex, adulthood, and outdoor access. One case study conducted in São Paulo found that 75% of the FIV-infected cats were males. Higher rates of infection in males than females occurs due to biting being more frequently engaged in by males defending their territory.^[8]

While it provides necessary information regarding the logistics of transmission, it neglects to advise for proper actions an owner or community can take to prevent transmission. Below is what I've added to the article to give owners of cats living with FIV some peace of mind and solid tactics.

As with all cats, FIV-infected cats should be spayed/neutered and should be confined indoors to prevent spread of the virus to other cats in the neighborhood. Keeping them indoors also reduces their exposure to infectious agents carried by other animals that can cause issues due to their compromised immune system. Diet is also of the utmost importance for FIV-infected cats. Providing them with all of the necessary nutrients to help combat this virus can be achieved by feeding them a balanced diet. A diet of raw meat and eggs as well as unpasteurized dairy products should be avoided to minimize the risk of food-borne bacterial and parasitic infections. If there is an uninfected cat in the household, FIV+ cats can share water bowls, pellet bowls, eat from the same bowl of wet food, and use the same litter box with low danger of transmitting the disease.  

Hopefully this will create a fuller picture of the tranmission of FIV as well as its prevention.

The Reality of Kitten Mills

Everyone has heard of the infamous puppy mill. These commercial "breeders" don't respect the lives of the dogs they house and breed resulting in unsafe and unsanitary living conditions and a myriad of widespread health problems. Although many puppy mills are still in operation, there has been an increased awareness and rejection of these businesses leading to more dogs being rescued from those conditions. Unfortunately, dogs aren't the only ones affected by these large scale breeding practices.

Cats and kittens are still undergoing this tremendous abuse all over the world. For one, kitten mills are much easier to conceal than puppy mills. Breeding facilities for dogs are usually outdoors and can be very noisy. However, with cats, due to their smaller size they are kept indoors in small, wire cages that can seriously damage their feet and legs. Several articles have been written about these inhumane breeding practices by shelters, blogs and news forums alike. I conducted my research via Specialty Purebred Cat Rescue, One Green Planet and The Dodo. 

From living in these harsh conditions, many of the cats are riddled with health problems. Most of the breeder cats’ coats have been destroyed and their bodies are infected with ringworm and other fungal diseases. Also common are painful dental issues, infected or ruptured eyes, and claws grown into the paw pads. As well, these commercial breeders are not retiring their female cats from birthing litters at a responsible, young age. Many of these females are being bred into their old age which can result in complications for the mom and the babies.

One would think that it'd be easy to report any unsafe facility and get them shut down, but that's simply not the case. Breeders who sell cats and dogs to pet stores are required to be licensed and inspected by the USDA, but according to the Humane Society of the United States. The Dodo cited that a woman accused of having unsafe breeding practices who was investigated was only fined $5,000 and put on probation for a year, which means that USDA inspectors will be visiting her facility and fining her more money for every sick cat they see. Yet she still has her breeding license. These breeders are not selling their kittens to reputable, responsible buyers either. Most of their customers are pet stores which will only result in more abuse and neglect of these animals.

This is a depressing reality, but there are tangible things that any individual can take to combat this terrible system. At the end of the day, these breeders are in it for the business. The law of supply and demand trumps all. So don't think that buying a poor kitty from the pet store is helping the cause. That's just showing the store and breeder that there is demand for these cats. If kittens are purchased at a slower rate, pet stores will lose profits and purchase less animals. The eventual goal is to eliminate all consumer support of kitten mills, so that these corporations would no longer have adequate demand for motivation to continue breeding.

Meet the Kitten Guru: Hannah Shaw

One of my go-to gurus for fostering know-how is Hannah Shaw, otherwise known as the Kitten Lady. She not only fosters tons of kittens in her own home, but also provides educational media, training resources, and instructional workshops and consulting services. Hannah, along with her partner, Anthony Marttila, run this small empire of education and service all for the purpose of benefiting cats and kittens. They are based out in San Diego, CA, but they travel all over the state and country helping kittens and foster parents who need a bit of assistance. Hannah has informed a lot of my fostering practices and she's never lead me astray. If you ever have any questions about the challenges and triumphs of fostering feral cats, please go check out her site. 

Below, you'll find a short interview produced by Little Things on YouTube featuring Hannah! In the interview, Hannah also discusses Cat Con, a convention held out in Pasadena entirely dedicated to all things cat. I've never been able to attend, but it seems like a wonderful, wholesome time. 

With Hannah's help, I'm about to take on a new challenge in the world of fostering. Unfortunately, I have never been able to trap the mother of the two litters of kittens I have fostered. Now, after extensive research, I feel ready to take on trapping, spaying and releasing the momma cat. I'll be sure to update the blog on how that whole process goes. 

Litter Training Tips

One of the many wonderful things about having cats is that they don't need any extensive potty training! Unlike the house training process for dogs, cats are much more relaxed. Cats are naturally drawn to using the litter box as long as they are provided with a comfortable environment and encouragement. Still, when bringing in feral kittens there are several things that a new foster parent can do that'll make the transition smoother.

• Introducing litter at the right time.

Some kittens may be too young to start using the litter box when you first bring them inside. If their mother is absent and you bring a litter of babies inside when they're newborns, they need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom as their mother would do. Kittens don't usually start using the litter box until three or four weeks.

• Choosing the right litter!

Safety and preference are the operative words when choosing the proper litter. Of course, using the safest, most effective kind of litter is paramount for any pet parent. There has been some controversy surrounding the use of clumping litter recently. This clumping litter is made out of sodium bentonite which expands when it comes into contact with liquid. Some of the concerns are that as cats and kittens clean themselves and lick their paws after using the litter, they can ingest clay particles. As well, kittens don't know exactly what is safe and what isn't yet so the risk of them chewing on some litter is an issue. Litter dust is also a potential cause for respiratory issues in people and pets as it contains crystalline silica particles. The safest bet, especially for kittens, is using a pellet based litter that is less likely to be ingested and doesn't give off dust.

Preference is also extremely important when selecting a litter. Cats can be finicky and sometimes are so stubborn that if they don't love the texture of a certain litter then you might find some unwelcome surprises around your house. Again, patience is key. You might have to try out several kinds of litter before the kittens settle on one they like best.

• Choosing the right placement.

The litter box should be placed in a safe, smart space. What I mean by this is that the box needs to be set up in a way that makes natural sense to the kitten. Cats are drawn to corners and areas away from where they sleep or eat. Placing the litter box in the farthest corner or perhaps in the closest with the door open at all times is the best option. If you're fostering kittens that are 3-8 weeks then they should have no problem having access to the box as they are being housed in a single room of your home.

• Positive reinforcement!

Positive reinforcement comes in two forms here. Making sure the kitties have a clean toilet to use and praising them when they use or attempt to use the litter box. Cleaning the litter box once a day is essential for the cats comfort and for the sake of the smell, honestly. If a kitten uses the box, shower them with pets and treats to show them that this is good behavior that you want to continue.

Best of luck with your potty-training!

Foster Profile: Jolie

Fostering can seem like an overwhelming and emotionally draining undertaking. It's easy to get caught up in the little trials and tribulations that come with socializing and training feral kittens. I'd like to take a break from the more educational content to feature a fostering success story. For a few years now, my mother and I have been following a woman on Instagram by the name of Beth Stern. She has fostered hundreds of cats and kittens over the years and has placed every one of them into a loving, safe home. She fosters all of her kittens in her own home on Manhattan's Upper West Side. Back in 2017, a trio of kitten siblings popped up on Beth's page. The three babies were found with their mother in Hollywood, FL living in a dirty car engine. All of the kittens had severe eye issues and were emaciated.

An extremely kind woman made an effort to rescue the three and promptly contacted Beth, as they needed medical attention immediately. Unfortunately, the mother could not be trapped at that time. Beth flew down to Florida and got each of the kittens the help they needed.  Beth had named them Happy, Merry, and Jolie. All of them were spayed/neutered and given medication for their eye issues. Happy and Merry were completely blind in one eye and still retained partial vision in the other. However, Jolie's issues, both congenital and developed, caused total blindness in both eyes. Eventually, one of Jolie's eyes had to be surgically removed due to chronic infection. Despite all this Jolie was the sweetest, most chatty baby who got around just like any other sighted cat.

By this point, my mother had fallen in love with Jolie. She was one of many who contacted Beth about the possibility of adopting Jolie. Luckily, my family was chosen to become Jolie's forever family.

In December we brought Jolie home just in time for Christmas. Our other two cats, Henri and Pineapple, became wonderful big siblings to Jolie and they all get along beautifully. As long as neither of them get anywhere near Jolie's favorite hangout spot, cardboard boxes. Fostering can be an extremely rewarding experience and the knowledge that you helped give a cat the best life possible is an amazing thing.

Flea Baths: A Step by Step Guide

As promised in the Basics for Fostering Ferals article, here is a detailed how-to for how to give your foster kitties the most effective, least stressful flea bath possible. Flea baths are a must for any kitten coming in from outside as fleas love to make a meal of them. From start to finish, here's exactly how to de-flea your fosters:

1.) Gather your materials.

You're going to want to set up your bathing station at a sink rather than a bathtub. This is much less stressful for the kitten as being even partially submerged in water is a one way ticket to getting scratched or bit. As for shampoo, blue Dawn dish soap is the way to go. Not only is it cheap, but it's gentle and very effective. You'll also need a feline specific flea comb. Linked here is the comb that I use for my fosters. It's easy to use and gets all the little nasties out of short haired or long haired kittens. Grab some cotton balls for cleaning up the kitten's face.

A cup of warm water with a bit of Dawn in it should be ready to go next to your sink so that any fleas you pull off can get dunked into the water to kill them immediately. Towels and long sleeves are a must as well. You can use gloves if you feel that they would make you more comfortable.

2.) Calm your kitten.

Working a calmed kitten into a bath is much easier than working with a stressed, hissing kitten. This might take a while so be patient. Wrapping them in a towel will help with this. Stroking the kitten with the flea comb without going too deep into their fur will acclimate them to the sensation which will serve you well once the combing starts.

3.) Start combing!

Pass the flea comb through the kitten's fur starting at the top of their head and working your way down over their back and stomach all the way to their tail. You'll see some little black dots on the comb as your brush through. This is flea dirt which is basically flea feces. If you come across a live flea in your comb then immediately dunk the comb into the Dawn and water solution to drown the flea so it doesn't have a chance to jump off onto another kitten.

4.) Time to start the bath…

Most importantly, NEVER submerge any kitten in water. Only use running water to bathe a kitten instead of standing water. As well, NEVER get soap near your kitten's eyes or in their ears. Before any water gets onto the kitten, create a ring of Dawn around the kittens neck as a barrier. If you start cleaning the back first, the fleas will run up to the head and ears of the kitten making it way more difficult to remove them. Using warm water, lather the ring of soap around the neck really well. Then, using more soap, work your way down the kitten's back, stomach, legs, and tail. Make sure to get in every nook and cranny! Those fleas are persistent.

Using a damp cotton ball with some Dawn on it, carefully clean the kitten's face and chin. You might notice that as water is running off your kitty that the water might be a bit red. This is the flea dirt washing off. Since fleas subsist off of blood, it's only natural that their feces will also be red. Once your kitten is lathered up and cleaned thoroughly, make sure to rinse all of the soap off of them.

5.) Warm your kitten up!

Since the little guys have a hard time regulating their own body temperature, it's essential that you warm them up as quickly as possible. Wrap the kitty in a nice, warm towel and gently dry them. Make sure that they're thoroughly dried and then you can pass through their fur again with the flea comb. Lastly, and arguably the most important step, shower them with treats! Baths are never a fun experience for any cat so treats and kisses are super important.

Flea baths don't have to be a traumatic experience for you or the cat. Taking these precautions and following these steps will benefit the health and happiness of your fosters.  

Pet Poisons

It can happen to the most diligent and caring pet owners. Whether you turn your back for a second or you try to let your pet try some of your dinner, there are so many accidents that occur with pets from accidental poisoning. Here, we'll discuss some of the most common household items that can make your fur babies really sick. 

Acetaminophen, found in Tylenol and many other medications, can cause serious liver damage in dogs and cats. Cats especially are sensitive, as only a single tablet for an average sized cat can cause anemia and unfortunately, sometimes is fatal. In 2012, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center reported that most of the cases they deal with are the accidental ingestion of prescription pills by dogs and cats.

Chocolate is a classic no-no for pets. Dark chocolate is particularly damaging to dogs and cats as it has a higher concentration of cocoa. Ingesting chocolate can result in seizures and even death.

Grapes, even in very small amounts, can lead to the rapid development of kidney failure. Repeated vomiting and hyperactivity are early signs of sickness.

Onions and garlic can severely damage your pets red blood cells which can lead to anemia. Even exposure to concentrated forms of onion or garlic like powders or soup mixes is also toxic. Symptoms of this type of poisoning are lethargy, weakness, reduced appetite, and pale gums. 

Mothballs, weirdly enough, can be poisonous to cats and dogs especially if they contain naphthalene. Vomiting and diarrhea may occur as well as increased drinking and seizures.

Lilies are a huge problem for the kidneys and hearts of our pets. In some cases, ingestion can be fatal. Be aware of the foliage that surrounds your home if you let your kitty outside.

Cleaning solutions/materials, such as bleach, drain cleaners, and ammonia, can cause gastrointestinal ulcers which can be extremely painful for any pet. 

Here are some simple tips to help keep your pets safe:

Store foods and medicine out of your pet's reach (even cats) and install cat-safe locks for your more curious than average kitty.

Do not let your cat on the counter while preparing food or eating. This is more sanitary for you and will prevent any sneaky bites of people food.

Do not feed your pet table scraps.

To learn more about how you can protect your pet from accidental poisoning, visit the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center's website and read more.

We Love North Shore Animal League

Over two million animals who are admitted to shelters every year are euthanized. Most of those unfortunate cases are cats. Kill shelters are far too commonplace in the United States and abroad which leaves many people complacent with this treatment of these animals. One shelter that stands above the rest and is paving the way for animal advocacy and quality of care is North Shore Animal League. North Shore is located in Port Washington, New York and has saved over a million lives in their 75 years of existence. They are a leader in the no-kill movement and create a positive environment of empathy and nurturing for any animal that comes through their doors. As well, they work to combat negative or dismissive stereotypes about certain animals or breeds through their work with Mutt-i-grees. Mutt-i-grees is working to elevate the status and promoting the acceptance of mixed breed animals. North Shore's vision is this: a future in which all companion animals find responsible, loving homes where they are free from abuse, hunger, hear, and loneliness and receive the care and respect they deserve.Their mission of advocacy manifests itself in four main avenues of service: rescuing, nurturing, adopting, and education.

Last summer, I had my own experience with North Shore and their staff. When a tortie kitty had a litter of five kittens in my backyard, I worked hard to make sure that they had a place to go once I had finished fostering and socializing them. I had found two families that each took one kitty each, but I was left with three other babies. The woman who I had adopted one of my own cats from connected me with North Shore as a possible source for help. I contacted them and the several staff members I spoke to were nothing but kind and concerned. We made a plan for me to come drop off the kittens to them and they would get them vaccinated, spayed/neutered and put them up for adoption. All three are now in homes and well taken care of. They accepted them even in the middle of summer, the most busy time when kittens are being born in every park and neighborhood. North Shore made room for them.

On the more medical side of things, one of my cats, Jolie, went to North Shore for a delicate eye surgery to remove her eye tissue that would become consistently infected due to past neglect. All of the technicians and the vets were dedicated to giving Jolie the care she deserved. The surgery went smoothly and she healed wonderfully. Working with North Shore has been a pleasure and I would not hesitate to go to them again should any animals I come across need help.

Colony Control: Euthanasia vs TNR

In communities that are home to feral cat colonies, controlling their populations can be a rather hot button issue. Many people care for these animals and provide them with food and shelter in the backyards or parking lots; while others wish their neighborhood was rid of these cats. There are generally two ways to deal with feral cat populations; euthanasia or trap-neuter-release, or TNR. Euthanasia is the practice of trapping these cats, humanely and inhumanely, and bringing them to "kill shelters" where they soon are euthanized in an effort to decrease the population. TNR is a non-lethal method to control the population that involves humanely trapping feral cats, having them spayed/neutered, vaccinated, and returning them to their colony to live their lives. TNR cats usually have an ear clipped to show that they have been spayed/neutered. Both stir some very strong feelings on either side of the cat debate.

Seeing how these cat colonies live and breed firsthand as well as how beautiful and sweet these cats are, euthanasia makes me sick to me stomach. Euthanasia is a band-aid solution with less than satisfactory results that are normally accompanied by food bans. Food bans are normally town or state issued mandates that require residents to stop feeding outdoor cats as they hope the cats will just leave if there is no food. Which just isn't the case. When food becomes scarce, cats just move closer to humans in hopes of finding scraps. As well, killing the cats as a solution just means that there will be more food and shelter for other cats that will come into the area starting the cycle all over. Not to mention that shelters that perform euthanasia are already packed to capacity and do not need more animals to deal with. One female cat has the ability to give birth to roughly 100 kittens in a seven year period. Euthanasia is not even the cheaper option. TNR costs range from under $40 to $75 for the entire process, while euthanasia costs roughly $100. Some areas even have TNR programs, making the process completely free.

What I've mentioned so far are just the logistical and financial reasons to support TNR over euthanasia. Somehow murdering perfectly able cats that are cared for by so many members of a community has become acceptable. There are so many myths about feral cats such as how they are mostly sick and dirty or that they have terrible quality of life. While living outdoors is not the perfect situation for a cat to be living in, they do have the skill set to survive and live long lives outdoors. There has been a gorgeous tortie kitty that has been visiting my window for a few years now and whenever she disappears for a couple days, I always worry if she was picked up to be brought to a kill shelter.

Basics for Fostering Ferals

So you want to start fostering that litter of kittens in your backyard? Great! Fostering feral kittens takes thoughtfulness and some patience, but it is easier than you might think. There are a few basics that you need to have in place before taking any outdoor kitties into your home. Here, we'll talk about necessary prep, actually trapping the kittens, and socializing practices.

Where to keep the kitties? Luckily, fostering kittens can be done in basically any style of home. All you need is a warm small, closed off area that the cats can call theirs for the time being, for example, a bathroom. "Warm" is an important word here, as kittens have a harder time regulating their body temperatures. All they need in that space is a litter box or two, a readily available supply and wet and dry kitten food, and some blankets and toys. Of course, it's extremely important to keep their area clean and dry as they mature and can be adopted out. Having high places they can climb to will make them feels safer as well. Feral kittens will usually make themselves known to you around four to six weeks old, but it's vital that they stay with their mother until they are at least eight weeks. Mom's milk provides important nutrients that encourage proper growth and development until the kitten's immune system can support itself.

How do you get the kitties inside? The best time to trap kittens is from eight to ten weeks, when they have developed enough to leave their mother while still be young enough to be trained. Kittens can be super tricky to catch especially if they won't let you hold them, which is often the case. Baited traps are the best option for safe handling and transporting. Larger traps won't seem as scary to cats as smaller traps do, boosting your chances of catching them. As well, using smelly bait like tuna or jarred baby food is more enticing. Placing the traps in a more secluded space helps as the cats feel safer away from human eyes. Even with the trap as a safeguard, be sure to use gloves when first handling feral kittens and don't underestimate how quick or liquid-like they can be.

Some concerns that potential foster parents have when preparing their home for new feline residents are mostly hygienic in nature. This is for good reason, especially if there are other pets in the house. A lot of nasty things like to latch onto kittens in their first few weeks, but the good news is that they can be squeaky clean with just a bit of TLC. The number one nasty that clings to kittens is the flea. Fleas are smart and they are a pain. Upon bringing the kittens into your home, they should be given a flea bath and administered flea and tick preventative medication immediately. The process of bathing kittens for fleas is a very specific process which will be covered in a later post to give it the time it requires.

Some feral kittens can be a bit aggressive as that's what they've been taught by their mother as a survival skill. The critical socialization period for kittens is from two to seven weeks. So before you bring them into your home, it's so important to make them aware of your presence and that you are not a threat. Wet food and treats help a lot with that. The process of training feral kittens can span from a few weeks to two months. After they've been brought inside, the kittens will need an adjustment period before they should begin to be socialized. After about two days, try leaving on the TV or radio so they can get used to human voices. Be down on their level when engaging in play with them with toys, not your hands. If they exhibit friendly behavior, don't be afraid to reward them with treats or pets! Be sure to remember that they are still outdoor animals, so use gloves or protective clothing while you are still gaining their trust. Remember that you are in charge and can scruff an aggressive kitten to gain control. To scruff a kitten safely, use your whole hand to grasp the kitten by the back of the neck or by the back without pinching, pull the cat up and support the hind legs.

Fostering feral kittens is a labor of love and requires a special touch. Remember that these are only the basics of taking kittens into your home and more detailed information is to come. Patience is key and the knowledge that they'll be placed into a loving home where they can thrive is motivation enough. Below is a beautiful tabby boy, Sunny, who I recently fostered and adopted out to a neighbor!